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Dog training tailored to your specifications

THE 3 MOST REQUESTED COURSES: A. obedience (level 1) the 5 basic obedience commands, B. behavior and C. housebreaking.
ADVANCED OBEDIENCE COURSES: level 2 whisper commands, level 3 hand commands, and level 4 the total control course.
PROTECTION COURSES: watch dog, guard dog, protection dog and attack dog.
SPECIALIZED COURSES: defiance and poison control.
CUSTOM COURSES: commands, boundary, fetch and hunting



A. OBEDIENCE COURSE: ( LEVEL 1 ) Everyone believes their dog needs this level of training. See advanced obedience levels below for Total Control of your dog...

The 5 basic obedience commands used WORLDWIDE are: down, sit, come, heel, and stay.

Beginners and amateurs start at this level. Giving a command is a direct order that gains respect without causing any pain!

These commands are given by using a firm commanding tone of voice that demands respect.

The majority of people that purchase (the basic 5 obedience commands) don't realize that it will only give them minimum command control of their dog.


This course is to solve or prevent behavior problems.

The most common BAD behaviors: jumping, chewing, biting, digging, barking, ETC...

A dog may have only a few of these bad behaviors, however, most dogs have a dozen or more! A bad behavior is ANYTHING they do that you don't want them to do. It's something the dog does... not something you command them to do.

You wouldn't command your dog to do any bad behaviors!


The majority of people I talk to believe that housebreaking only teaches dogs where to relieve themselves.

To accomplish this, they just put the dog in a cage and take them outside at certain time intervals. They believe that after the dog makes enough mistakes and lies in it, the dog will eventually learn not to defecate in their own cage. Although cage training may work on some dogs, I've seen just as many dogs that it will not work on. Regardless, a cage will not housebreak any dog, no matter how long you use it or what size it is. Now, do you understand why most dogs running loose in an entire house will defecate without any type of correction? However, how come some dogs won't defecate in their own cage?

These un-educated dog owners tell me that the correction part of housebreaking a dog is easy. They just, "rub the dog’s face in it or hit them with their hand or a rolled up newspaper." Often, they do both and then they usually end up throwing their dog outside. This type of correction may or may not work when you are at home; it will definitely NOT work when you are not at home! Their friends and family think this is all cruel, but they never suggest another way; perhaps they don't know a better way themselves!

Pure force affects the general trust between the dog and the owner and often causes extreme behavior problems. For example, when someone reaches to simply pet this kind of dog, they may duck, cowl, growl or wet themselves, or may even bite! I’m not saying that some dogs won’t learn this way--but rather how much of the dog’s personality will be left intact! Cage training causes severe separation anxiety problems in almost all dogs. Visit any adoption agency or pet store and listen; you will see what I mean! Does any of this sound familiar to you? Do you want your dog trained the amateur way?

An expert never uses the amateur way to housebreak a dog. He uses a strict regimented system that consists of 12-18 specific steps. No trial and error, guessing and hoping for the best ... just knowledge acquired from 42+ years of experience in housebreaking dogs.

The above A (any level), B and C courses can be purchased separately or in any combination. Usually, customers don’t want to wait for the completion of one course before they can begin another. By waiting, the dog has time to learn many bad habits and destructive behaviors.

For example, by waiting for course B or C or deciding that you don't need them, this could potentially do thousands of dollars in damage to your dog and/or property!

Teaching all 3 courses from the start prevents all of this damage from happening.



Teach a dog to respond to commands when hearing your voice at a low level or whisper.

This is accomplished by teaching commands with only a whisper while the dog is near you and using a low voice level when the dog is at a further distance. At hundreds of feet away, your dog is only hearing your voice at a whisper level. In other words, the dog is taught to obey the low level or whisper at close range and then they will obey at distances; this gives you control of a dog at great distances.

This is possible because dogs hear 10 times greater than us. I consider it a must that all dogs should be taught my level 2 course because it achieves the highest level of voice training possible!


Do you remember your parents saying, "You better LOOK AT ME when I'm talking to you?"

Hand commands work exactly the same way with a dog; a dog must LOOK AT YOU in order to follow a hand command. Hand commands teach a dog to focus on your hand movements and what each movement means.

Hand commands represent the highest single level of respect that can be obtained because of the constant level of ATTENTION that the dog must be willing to give you.


All 3 levels combined: Gives maximum command control by utilizing all 5 senses!

To be cost effective, all 3 levels must be purchased from the start. I also offer them in progression, if requested. Regardless of which way you decide, you will want all 3 levels; this is the only way to tune and perfect all 5 senses!

Once all 3 levels are completed, you will have gained the maximum amount of command control from your dog that is possible.


The MAIN PURPOSE for each of our protection courses is to be able to turn the dog's aggression OFF instantly when necessary. Whether the dog becomes aggressive naturally or has been trained to do so. The OFF command is absolutely necessary for every breed of dog: a persistent barker, a dog that chases and may bite, or a dog that will bite.

The OFF command stops all aggression immediately.


The lowest level of protection. The dog is trained to bark to protect PROPERTY.

Most dogs learn to do this on their own if they haven't been overly socialized. If they have been too socialized, it deadens their wolf instincts that would've taken over to make them become a barker or growler. When this happens, most dogs won't bark at even a complete stranger. They'll lose their natural suspicion towards people. I see this quite often with friendly breeds, but normally, they can be re-trained. Courses are designed to DEFEND specific locations, such as indoors, outdoors and/or vehicles. To properly teach the dog, you must train them at each separate location.

A dog that barks is usually what MOST people want, especially a large breed.


The guard dog will bark and bite if necessary to protect PROPERTY.

In the above watchdog course, the dog is not taught to bite. Most customers usually prefer both, while a few request only the bite. A guard dog is on duty 24-7. Like the watch dog, each course is taught at specific locations such as: indoors, outdoors and/or vehicles. A handler does not need to be present for this type of protection. It's used for DEFENDING for homes, hospitals, junkyards, car impoundment lots, country estates or mansions.

A dog that bites is the ultimate level of protection for property.


The dog can be trained to bark, bite or both, to protect PEOPLE. (I do NOT teach a personal protection dog to bite on command)

This course brings out a dog's natural protective instincts; when they see a real threat to the owner, some dogs often bite to protect, especially an alpha dog. It’s a natural reflex to them, but this is still only DEFENSIVE training.

Warning: other dogs in a litter will also bite to defend their owners (especially the more dominate ones) without being trained or commanded to do so.


The dog is normally trained to bark and always bites on command.

Police, security, military, and/or bounty hunters use them for criminal apprehension; this course is used strictly for OFFENSIVE training.

Not all dogs can be effective taught the protection courses (especially the bite). These courses are most effective with dominant dogs, especially alpha dogs.

With each of our PROTECTION COURSES, I teach a OFF command for all aggression; the dog stops on the very first command. Most trainers call this the OUT command.



This course prevents intentional or accidental poisoning.

This course is designed to teach a dog to never accept food/treat from a person's hand or wherever the dog is placed.


This course teaches a dog intentionally NOT to obey anyone’s commands other than the dog's master or alternative persons.

Obviously, you want to be sure your dog does NOT obey complete strangers, especially a guard or attack dog.

The specialized courses should be combined with obedience and/or the protection courses.


  • Commands: upstairs, back seat, wait, go, quit, quiet, etc...
  • Boundary: yard, kitchen, boat, etc...
  • Fetch: professional fetch training
  • Hunting: birds, ducks, rabbit, etc...
Now lets take some time to review the facts... Summary