Memory Test

Now you know why other schools never want you to have all the facts.  

Without the facts, it's a SELLER'S market.

Knowing them is the only way to a BUYER'S market.

 Most people have heard of the 5 methods and 3 styles, as these are the basics of this industry.  However, they haven't had them explained by an expert.  In fact, an elementary education is all that's needed when shopping for them.

 To fully understand these parts and my entire process, you must read the collegiate level, THE EVALUATION PROCESS.  It explains what we’ll be covering when you come in for the evaluation.  After reading this, you'll know the type of course you want and the procedures involved; then we can discuss the amount of time needed for the TESTING.

 I perform a professional evaluation on every dog in person, in order to obtain an accurate assessment of the dog’s specific needs.  After completing a series of tests, I will achieve a profile of your dog’s disposition, temperament and personality, which determines their learning skills or their true potential.  Without this testing, there's no way to determine the type of course the dog is capable of completing!

 DISPOSITION:

 A dog’s direct responses to people or animals while they’re being socialized.  Conducting tests with people and animals are necessary to find out these social differences.  Example: Some dogs are friendly; others show aggression when meeting people or animals.

 The high and low range of a dog's behavior.  Some people call this the dog’s attitude.

 This is based on the dog's responses to different stimuli from people or animals.  

 To determine a dog's attitude, I perform what's called a sensitivity test, or doing things to the dog to bring out the ranges of their reactions.  Some examples are ignoring the dog, being friendly, yelling, or making threatening gestures.  All of these things are stimuli that determine exactly what the dog will do under certain circumstances.  I must test a lot of different stimuli in order to find the extreme ranges of a dog's behavior.  The way the dog reacts to these tests is the temperament.  

 Some schools go as far as to use weapons on the dog, but I find it's only necessary to use the dogs' natural suspicions to learn their range of actions. 

 PERSONALITY:

 The combination of disposition and temperament makes a dog’s personality.

 To determine the basic personality of the 6-7 week old pup, I need to know what rank it held in the litter.  Within 1-3 years of age, the personality is completely formed; the exact age depends not only on its rank, but also by how gently or cruelly it was raised.  The socialization with people and dogs decide the total personality and the age when it reaches full development.  You must also factor in that the domestic dog (more than any other animal) reflects some of the traits of its owner's personality.

 I must know the personality of each dog to determine their true potential; only through evaluation testing is this possible.  Like us, dogs have many different personalities, which means they learn at different levels.  For example, some dogs require extensive repetition while others learn quickly.  All dogs require periodic reinforcement before actually retaining what they’ve learned.  Dogs use short-term and long-term memory.  Long-term is used for habit patterns to be formed permanently so that the dog will not challenge any of what’s been taught.  After the trainer completes a course, the owner’s work must continue.  At this point, dogs are only using their short-term memory.  By practicing at home what has already been taught, the long-term memory is engaged and what has been learned goes into the dog’s lifelong memory banks.

 The capability of the handler is one of the most important parts of the whole process.  Everyone learns differently; sometimes, what works for one will not work for another!  The owner must learn how to properly handle their dog.  They will need a Master Trainer to achieve the one-on-one personalized training for both.  This type of expertise is what you receive at my school.  I teach the owner how to accurately handle their dog so they can bring out the best in their dog.  In addition, people have different views of how they want their dog socialized.  I must see you both working together to determine the strengths and weaknesses of your working relationship.  After this testing, we can discuss the type of course needed to achieve the correct training.  

 Now you understand why I MUST see you and your dog to do an evaluation to know the pertinent FACTS that are needed to give my assessment.  Without them, it’s impossible to select a course and there is no way to quote a price on any course.  All people and dogs are different; they will learn differently.  Obviously, each will have to be evaluated for an accurate evaluation assessment.

 There is no other way to know these answers either (Example...How long will each lesson be?  How many lessons per week?  How many weeks to complete a course)?  Remember, time is money.  I cannot know which course(s) will be needed on the telephone or by email, nor can I guess exactly how much time will be needed for both you and your dog.  Remember, these TESTS can only be done in person!

 In fact, a master of ANY profession cannot give their assessment on the phone or by email (or in person) until after a hands on diagnostic evaluation is performed in person.  

 An expert's assessment is a must, before any work can be done correctly!

 This is the most important part of EVERY master's field; it certainly is the main part of my entire process.  Anything else is just plain guessing!!

THE 3 MOST REQUESTED COURSES

 A. OBEDIENCE COURSE: ( LEVEL 1 ) see below for advanced obedience levels...

 The 5 basic commands used WORLDWIDE are: down, sit, come, heel, and stay.

 Beginners and amateurs start at this level.  Giving a command is a direct order that gains respect without causing any pain!  These are given by using a firm, commanding tone of voice that demands respect.

 B. BEHAVIOR COURSE:

 This course is to solve or prevent behavior problems.

 Common bad behavior: jumping, chewing, biting, digging, barking, etc...

 A dog may have only a few of these, but most dogs usually have a dozen or more!  A bad behavior is almost ANYTHING they do that you don't want them to do.  It's something the dog does...not something you command them to do.  You wouldn’t command your dog to do any bad behaviors! 

 C. HOUSEBREAKING COURSE:

 The majority of people I talk to believe that housebreaking only teaches dogs where to relieve themselves.  To accomplish this, they just put the dog in a cage and take them outside at certain time intervals.  They believe that after the dog makes enough mistakes and lies in it, the dog will eventually learn not to defecate in their own cage.  Although cage training may work on some dogs, I've seen just as many dogs that it will not work on.  Regardless, a cage will not housebreak any dog, no matter how long you use it or what size it is.  Now, do you understand why most dogs running loose in an entire house will defecate without any type of correction?  However, how come some dogs won't defecate in their own cage? 

 These un-educated dog owners tell me that the correction part of housebreaking a dog is easy.  They just, "rub the dog’s face in it or hit them with their hand or a rolled up newspaper."  Often, they do both and then they usually end up throwing their dog outside.  This type of correction may or may not work when you are at home; it will definitely NOT work when you are not at home!  Their friends and family think this is all cruel, but they never suggest another way; perhaps they don't know a better way themselves!

 Does this sound familiar to you?  Do you want your dog trained the amateur way? 

 I’m not saying that some dogs won’t learn this way--but rather how much of the dog’s personality will be left intact!  Cage training causes severe separation anxiety problems in almost all dogs.  Visit ANY adoption agency or pet store and listen; you will see what I mean!

 Pure force affects the general trust between the dog and the owner and often causes extreme behavior problems.  For example, when someone reaches to simply pet this kind of dog, they may duck, cowl, growl or wet themselves, or may even bite! 

 An expert never uses the amateur way to housebreak a dog.  He uses a strict regimented system that consists of 12-18 specific steps.  There is no trial and error, guessing and hoping for the best...just knowledge acquired from years of experience in housebreaking dogs.   

 Teaching all 3 courses from the start prevents all of this from happening.

  ADVANCED OBEDIENCE

 WHISPER COMMANDS COURSE: ( LEVEL 2 )

 Teach a dog to respond to commands when hearing your voice at a low level or whisper.

 This is accomplished by teaching commands with only a whisper while the dog is near you and using a low voice level when the dog is at a further distance. 

 At hundreds of feet away, your dog is only hearing your voice at a whisper level.  In other words, the dog is taught to obey the low level or whisper at close range and then they will obey at distances; this gives you control of a dog at great distances.  This is possible because dogs hear 10 times greater than us.

 I consider it a must that all dogs should be taught my level 2 course because it achieves the highest level of voice training possible!

 HAND COMMANDS COURSE: ( LEVEL 3 )

 Do you remember your parents saying, "You better LOOK AT ME when I'm talking to you?"  

 Hand commands work exactly the same way with a dog; a dog must LOOK AT YOU in order to follow a hand command. 

 Hand commands teach a dog to focus on your hand movements and what each movement means.   

 Hand commands represent the highest single level of respect that can be obtained because of the constant level of ATTENTION that the dog must be willing to give you. 

 The TOTAL CONTROL COURSE: ( LEVEL 4 )

 All 3 levels combined: Gives maximum command control by utilizing all 5 senses!

 To be cost effective, all 3 levels must be purchased from the start.  I also offer them in progression, if requested.  Regardless of which way you decide, you will want all 3 levels; this is the only way to tune and perfect all 5 senses!  

 Once all 3 levels are completed, you will have gained the maximum amount of command control from your dog that is possible.

PROTECTION COURSES

 The main purpose for each of my protection courses is to be able to turn the dog's aggression OFF instantly when necessary.  Whether the dog becomes aggressive naturally or after being commanded to do so, the OFF command is absolutely necessary for every breed of dog...i.e. a persistent barker or a dog with more aggressive tendencies.  This command STOPS all aggression immediately.

 The lowest level of protection.  The dog is trained to bark to protect property.  

 Most dogs learn to do this on their own if they haven't been overly socialized.  If they have been too socialized, it deadens their wolf instincts that would've taken over to make them become a barker or growler.  When this happens, most dogs won't bark at even a complete stranger.  They'll lose their natural suspicion towards people.  I see this quite often with friendly breeds, but normally, they can be re-trained.  Courses are designed for specific locations, such as indoors, outdoors and/or vehicles.  To properly teach the dog, you must train them at each separate location.  A dog that barks is usually what MOST people want, especially a large breed.

 The guard dog will bark and bite if necessary to protect property.  

 In the above watchdog course, the dog is not taught to bite.  Most customers usually prefer both, while a few request only the bite.

 A guard dog is on duty 24-7.  Like the watch dog, each course is taught at specific locations such as: indoors, outdoors and/or vehicles.  A handler does not need to be present for this type of protection.  It's often used for security for homes, hospitals, junkyards, car impoundment lots, country estates or mansions.  Sometimes, it's even used to protect the federal government's national security.

 The dog can be trained to bark, bite or both, to protect PEOPLE.  (I do NOT teach a personal protection dog to bite on command)

 This course brings out a dog's natural protective instincts; when they see a real threat to the owner, some dogs often bite to protect, especially an alpha dog.  It’s a natural reflex to them, but this is still only DEFENSIVE training.  Warning: other dogs in a litter will also bite to defend their owners (especially the more dominate ones) without being trained or commanded to do so. 

 The dog is normally trained to bark and always bites on command.

 Police, security, military, and/or bounty hunters use them for criminal apprehension; this course is used strictly for OFFENSIVE training.

 With each of the PROTECTION COURSES, I teach a STOP command for all aggression; the dog STOPS on the very first command.  Most trainers call this the OUT command.

  NOT ALL DOGS CAN BE EFFECTIVELY TAUGHT THE PROTECTION COURSES (ESPECIALLY THE BITE).  THESE COURSES ARE MOST EFFECTIVE WITH DOMINANT DOGS, ESPECIALLY WITH AN ALPHA DOG.

 REMEMBER, I EVALUATE ALL DOGS TO DETERMINE WHICH COURSES THEY CAN COMPLETE!

SPECIALIZED COURSES

 This course prevents intentional or accidental poisoning.  

 DEFIANCE TRAINING:

 This course teaches a dog intentionally NOT to obey anyone’s commands other than the dog's master or alternative persons, if taught.  Obviously, you want to be sure your dog doesn’t obey complete strangers, especially a guard or attack dog.

 ONE OR BOTH OF THESE SPECIALIZED COURSES SHOULD BE COMBINED WITH OBEDIENCE OR THE PROTECTION COURSES.

 

OUTLINED SUMMATION

 

 1. EVALUATION OF THE DOG: disposition, temperament and personality.

 2. EVALUATING THE OWNER: analyzing the owner's capabilities, identifying their strengths and weaknesses, and confirm their desire to learn the skills necessary to teach and handle their dog correctly.  

 4. ADVANCED OBEDIENCE: level 2 whisper commands, level 3 hand commands, and level 4 the total control course. 

 5. PROTECTION COURSES: watch dog, guard dog, protection dog and attack dog.

 6. SPECIALIZED COURSES: defiance and poison training.

 

LIVE DEMONSTRATION  Throughout my career, I have always given a live demonstration of one of my professionally trained dogs; these have included the Shepherd, Doberman and Rottweiler.  All my dogs have been able to perform not only the basic 5 commands, but also my best obedience course that covers 45 commands, encompassing all five senses.  They performed all of these commands correctly on the first command, with whisper & hand commands with no leash or collar, inside and outside, even at hundreds of feet away from me.   I always conduct a brief handling session with your dog.  Once you’ve witnessed the first command perfection in your dog, you'll understand that everything in my system is necessary for the best results possible.  My presentation will allow you to witness and understand why NO other competitor wants to have ANY discussion on the telephone about the QUALITY of their work versus mine!  Then you'll realize the level of expertise that I possess, a MASTER TRAINER, a true expert at using this state of the art system for over 28 years.

MISSION STATEMENT

 My most important goal is for you to achieve and permanently maintain first command performances off-leash, especially with the come command.  I’m always striving for your perfection; remember, anything less than this 100% control could actually cost your dog its life!  In most cases, it eventually does!  After knowing all the facts, can you settle for anything less than the quality offered at Ohio State K-9 College?  I’m proud to say I have dedicated 12 hours a day, 5-6 days a week for the past 28 years, half of my life, at being a Master Trainer.

 Now you know the whole truth!

 I teach only those customers who are willing to shop for the truth first!

 I not only prefer, but request all of my customers to take the time to make these phone calls, so that when they call me, we can effectively discuss: the correct method #5 (voice), the best style #3 (expert), and the skill of a Master Trainer!

 By performing the TESTING above on every dog, combined with the knowledge and experience of 28 years using this state of the art system, this assures that EVERY dog's evaluation is performed correctly and precisely!

Ready for your "final grade" ?  Call Joey at:

(614) 337-0033